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Curvilinear System, 



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y\c;TUAL Measup^es with Divisions of the Breast Measur,! 



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SALISBURY'S 



CURVILINEAR SYSTEM, 



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REFACE. 



7";^^ volume which is introduced by these lines is intended to diffuse a nezt.' discoz'cry 
in as finely illustrated fashion as the subject will permit, or the author can present it. 
That a tiew departure and radical changes are disseminated in the professio7ial art of 
Cutting, need not be argued at this time, for the ivork luill bear the scrutinizing eye of 
the candid artist, ivho ivill find unfolded to his untiring vision, the most scientific 
problem ever developed in the annals of Tailoring 

Besides the wotideiful invention of the one measure, the Curvilinear, tvith its accom- 
plishing residts, there is to be fotmd the grand combination of the two great principles 
utiderlying the whole groimd plan of Garment Ctitting, tvhich are actual measurement, 
and the correct division of the draft in harmony with all the corresponding divisions of 
the human form. 

The zoork is original in all the general details introduced both in the description 
given, and iti the accompanying Twelve Plates of Illustrations. The author further 
claims that in this work he has brought out and developed in a condensed form. All 
the essential measwes, and details for producing the bases of all di^afts necessary for the 
true developmeiit of the many styles or 'changes that is needed to make a thoroiigh and 
complete staiidard system of authority on general principles. The atithor advises those 
zvho contemplate the study and practice of these nezu principles, tofollozo out the instr-jic- 
tions as laid dozvn in each lesson, and to not attempt to chattge any of the points, or to 
add thereto. Again, do not fail to lay aside all prejudice, and ifyojc thus do, you will 
unhesitatingly become a hearty indorser of the valuable points of knowledge brought out 
in this edition. 

Caution. 

The ptcblis hers of this work hereby caution all persons into whose hands a copy of this 
work may be placed, that they are sole proprietors and venders, according to the 
laws of the United States, aiid all persons zvho may desigtiedly attempt to purloin, or 
teach others from the illustrations herein, hold themselves liable to heavy penalties. 
Again, this work is not transferable except by zuritten consent from the publishers, zvhich 
consent will be always attached to the work, and any infringement will be rigidly pro- 
ceeded against. 



A^ 



SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 



TAKING THE MEASURE. 
Plate One. — Figure One and Fioure Two. 

Let O at the back of neck on figure i, represent the starting point ; also the place 
you design as proper for locating the collar seam, or top of back to coat. From O, 
proceed to measure down to the most hollow part of waist in centre of back, 1 7 
inches, to C, for the full length of waist, 18^^ inches; thence to D, for the length of 
skirt, 34 inches. 

These three measures can be taken before your customer has laid off his coat. 
Those not experienced in measuring over the vest, it would be as well for them to 
adopt that plan at the beginning, and thus make a gradual change, if they deem it 
admisable to do so. 

From O, measure to A 2, at the side of neck 2^ inches, or the width you may 
determine to cut the top of back, more or less ; make a chalk mark at this pouit 
close to the neck as the vest collar will permit, for from this, our second point, we 
commence to the Curvilinear measure. It is our custom to produce this mea- 
sure as a general rule from the right side of the person, for this one important 
reason, which is beyond dispute, that in the majority of men, when measured, 
especially those above thirty years of age, the right shoulder will be found the lowest. 
To take this measure, place the inch tape at A 2 ; let the measure then pass down 
in front as seen in figure 2, bringing it in under the arm up on back, (see fig. i), to 
place o{ starting, 23 inches. When taking this measure, see that your customer's 
arm is hanging at the side and forward, so that the little finger will rest on the side 
seam of pantaloons ; also, that the shoulder is down in a natural position ; not raised 
or thrown back as when assuming an erect attitude. Again, do not draw your 
measure very close, but smoothly and with care. 

Now, while your measure is in use at this part of the body, proceed to take the 
size around arm scye, 163^ inches, which may be taken quite close, for reasons that 
will be made apparent hereafter, yet do not take this measure too high up on 
shoulder ; neither off too far. Our plan is to bring the tape just over the end of the 
Acrommn Process, which may be easily felt while passing the measure up around over 
the top of the shoulder. When taking this measure of the size of arm scye, if you 



4 SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 

will start the end of the tape about the point shown on figure i, by the hand resting 
against the shirt sleeve ; then after passing the measure around arm scye, you can 
at once take the natural width of back, by simply retaining the measure in the right 
hand, and with the left bring the measure to the centre of back, 23^ inches. When 
the scye measure is deducted from this measure, it gives us 7 inches as our net 
width of natural back. Or you can proceed to take this measure as shown on plate 
nine, by figure 2. 

For obtaining the true length of sleeve, it can be accomplished in three ways — 
while the arm is at the side. First, by measuring from A 2, at neck (see fig. i) in a 
direct line to hand at the point you wish to have the sleeve length, 31 inches. Now, 
by deducting one-half of the Curvilinear measure, which would be 113^ inches, we 
have igyi inches as the length of our sleeve. The second method is by placing the 
end of tape measure up in under the arm, close to arm pit, and then taking the 
length on the under side of arm to haqd. Our third mode is introduced on plate 
nine, and illustrated by figure 3, showing the mode of using the inch square for 
the same purpose. 

We now take the size of the neck, by passing the measure from O, around in front 
to centre of bosom, and about one inch down from the collar-button, ^i/^ inches. 

BREAST MEASURE, 
Is taken by passing your hands in under the customer's arms, bringing the measure 
across the breast, around to centre of the back, 36 inches. 

WAIST MEASURE. 
Proceed in same manner, by passing the measure around the smallest part of the 
waist, 30 inches. 

The hip measure is taken around over the point of hip bone, or at the bottom of 
the vest, 32 inches. 

This concludes our measurement for a coat. Summed up, it stands thus : 
17. Natural waist length. 
i^yi. Full or fashionable length of waist. 
34. Full or fashionable length of skirt. 
23. Curvilinear measure. 
i6j^. Size around arm scye. 
193^. Length of Sleeve. 
7. Natural width of back. 

8^. One-half size around the neck, or gorge measure. 
36. Circumference of breast. 
30. Circumference of waist. 
32. Circumference of hip. 



HALJHBI^iT'S CIIRn^ LcCVBAII HYHTl'r.Vi, 




yWAfWf/ /Ar JAy/,<,v//r. 



SAL/SBURV'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 5 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT DRAFT 

Plate Two. 

Draw line from O to R. Then square out at O, as illustrated. The line first 
drawn we designate in plate 3, as line M, which will be the same in all drafts 
for coats, it being the base for drawing all parallel lines in the diagram, as well as 
the horizontal lines. From O to A 2, is two and three-fourth inches, or whatever 
the style may call for. 

Draw line H i, parallel with line M, seven inches, which is our representive line 
for the natural width of back, and is a very important one in the working of this 
system, as will be demonstrated. 

Next in order is Line J 3, front of arm scye. To establish this line correctly in its 
direct relation to the form of your customer, is of great importance, that it may be a 
certain guide in determining how far into the forepart of coat the arm scye may ex- 
tend in harmony with the figure to be clothed. 

The proper and definate location of the arm scye, in our judgement, has as great 
a bearing on the final result of the fit of the garment to be obtained, as any other 
point in the draft. Therefore, should be located understandingly by the cutter. To 
do this, we will use one-third of the circumference of the arm scye i6i^, which 
would be 5*/^ inches, the distance line, J 3, is to be drawn from line H i. 

Now proceed to locate line L 5, for the centre of breast, eighteen inches from line 
M, or one-half of breast measure. Having line H i, line J 3, and line L 5, estab- 
lished, we then draw line I 2, exactly in the centre between lines H i, and J 3. This 
line is thus located to be used for applying one-half of the Curvilinear measure in a 
direct line, iij/^ inches, from A 2, top of back to line I 2, as shown at X, and where- 
ever this measure intersects line I 2, let that point be the base or bottom of arm 
scye, then square across as represented from S i to S r. 

Line K 4 is drawn in the centre of space between and parallel with line J 3, and 
line L 5. This line is our guide for locating the point of shoulder A 2, which is done 
by using the balance half of the Curvilinear measure 1 1^ inches applied from line 
I 2, at X, as represented by dotted curved line directly up to line K 4. 

Having these main points already established, we are now prepared to finish 
drawing our back, O to E, one-half inch; E to F, 183/3 inches; F to D 3, 2 inches. 
From S I, at bottom of scye to P i, is two and one-eighth inches, from Pi to B i, on 
line H I, is two inches, then finish back by drawing the curved lines as shown. 

Now proceed to draw the curve from P i, around the bottom of arm scye. Then 
apply the arm scye measure 16^, adding one-half inch or more if desired. Starting 



6. SAL/SB i//iV'S CVRVILINEAK SYSTEM. 

at B I, top of back scye, passing along on the curve to scye, around in front, up to 
B I, at the top of shoulder, this measure applied with accurateness, not twisting and 
kinking the tape in the application, will always ensure definately the requisite amount 
of length for shoulder, demonstrating in a practical manner the fallacy of using the 
many superfluous surface measures in vogue. 

Draw curve from B i to A 2, for the top of shoulder. From A 2 to G 2, is three 
inches, then draw line from A 2, at the top of the back, intersecting G 2, then for- 
ward, for the purpose of a guide line to form the curve to neck gorge. 

Now take the width of the top of back, two and three-fourths inches, from the 
gorge measure, eight and three-fourths inches; and apply the balance along on curve 
from A 2, adding one-half inch for seams, for the full length of gorge. 

This completes the shoulder part of our draft. Our next is the elucidation of the 
WAIST BALANCE to harmonize with the points already laid down. To accom- 
plish this, we will here state, that from actual practice, we have found that we never 
need to take out at the space D 3 to D 3, more than two inches, which is the differ- 
ence between one-half of hip measure, 16 inches, and one-half of the breast measure, 
18 inches. Only where there is a showing of this difference will it be found advise- 
able to ever allow this amount of space, between the back and side body, at D 3, D 3* 

This subject will be fully treated upon in the various changes of space at this part 
of the draft, in the descriptions given of the various formed diagrams on other 
plates in this work. 

From D 3, at the bottom of side-body, mark the width of side-body at this point 
out on dotted line five and one-half inches, squared from F line M. From P i to 
D 3, on the curve to side-body, let the length be one-half inch more at the bottom 
than is found in the curve to back from P i to D 3. From A 2, on line K 4, the 
point of shoulder, sweep from D 3 to N, as a guide in balancing the bottom of fore- 
part, at the front of lapel. This question of balance will be further discussed in the 
description given of other diagrams. From D 3, at side-body, measure forward 
to the bottom of the forepart one-half of the hip measure, 16 inches, allowing that 
the width of back at F, D 3, is equivalent to the extra size consumed in making up 
the garment at this part of the body, for a close or snug fit ; if ease is sought at the 
waist tliat the garment may be worn buttoned, then give an additional allowance of 
one or two inches, in accordance to the material to be used for the garment ; it is ad- 
mitable that heavy goods require more allowance for making than light cloths. 
Draw curve to breast, intersecting point established by length of neck gorge 
measure. For lapel and extra front in advance of line L 5, for this styk of coat is 
five inches, or in accordance to style required. 



l.^^^ 



SALIBBT^TB CFHVIIJ:S"BAR SXSTE3I. 



S.I 




SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 7 

THE SKIRT. 

This portion of the garment is an auxiliary that requires just care, both in its treat- 
ment at the hands of the cutter and journeyman, and as we shall confine our- 
selves principally to the mode of forming the draft, the subject of proper treatment 
in the hands of the maker will be tabled a la Congress until our next session, 
vie la Grand Curvilinear, edition number two. Our procedure is apparent to the 
causal critic as demonstrated in the engraved illustration before us ; yet we write to 
explain our method more or less. 

From base line M, square dotted line from D 3 to T, the distance that the bottom 
across the forepart, including lapel, adding only the turn in, say one inch, on the front 
and back of skirt when cutting, from the goods. Place the long arm of square at 
D 3, touching at 2, represented by dotted line, squaring down, touching at T, with 
the short arm of square for the front of skirt. From F to R is 7 inches, as a rule for 
all sizes, from 36 upwards, and six inches under this size to 32 breast, which distance 
is taken as nearly the point, touching the hip as the largest part, in circumference. 
From R to R is the distance of F to D 3. Draw line from D 3, at the bottom of 
side-body, to R. See dotted line, marking your curved line for spring to skirt one 
inch in at the bottom from dotted line ; complete the skirt by making the length 
equal from D 3 and at T. The balance of back, which includes the back skirt, we 
finish in laying out the draft on the goods, as illustrated on plate 12, by diagram ig. 



SINGLE-BREASTED WALKING COAT. 

Plate Three. 

On this plate we have engraven diagram i, which should have been diagram 2 ; 
also the figure 3, which we shall use as an object from which to illustrate the funda- 
mental principles underlying the practical workings of our discovery in the use of 
one measure, that we have proposed to call the Curvilinear, representing as near as 
possible the form of a Curvilinear Triangle, in the manner of applying the inch tape 
when producing this measure. 

DIAGRAM 1, 
Although drawn in the same manner in laying out the base of operations to estab- 
lish the various points, yet in the form of curved lines, we have before us another 
style of garment, the essential difference of which we will now explain, if the reader 
will give his strict attention, while we unfold the hidden mysteries of the Art of 
Drafting, as reduced to a Science. 

The dotted line drawn from E, at the top of back, to E, in front, and at the bottom 
oi scye, is used by us as quite a safe guide to locate the nick in back scye, as the 
place for joining in the back-arm seam of the sleeve. 



8 SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 

The space taken out between D 3, D 3, in this diagram is only one and one-half 
inches, namely : The difference between one-half of hip measure and the breast. From 
D 3, at bottom of side body to the front edge of coat is one-half of hip measure. 
This mode of applying size at this point is as we practice for this particular style of 
o-arment being cut away in front, it does not require extra width unless it is intended 
to be worn buttoned, then add one inch e.xtra as allowance. 

THE SKIRT. 

To draw this form of skirt, proceed to locate the line N from point P i , touching 
at D 3, extending the full length you desire the skirt. We now form the curved 
line as represented. 

[Observe that the top of skirt is raised from D 3, one and one-fourth inches. See 
dotted line]. 

To form the top of skirt by the aid of forepart, taking a space out at front, 
between top of skirt and forepart, of one-half inch. The length of skirt, both front 
and back to correspond with the lull length of back skirt. To produce the balance 
of forepart, place tape measure at A 2, and sweep from D 3, at bottom of side-body, 
as represented in plate t, with this change — shorten the forepart at front one-inch 
from the sweep line, otherwise there would be too much length at that part of the 
coat when made up. In other respects the measures are applied, and the points 
established in harmony with the description of plate i. 

FIGURE THREE. 

Should we draw a line parallel with the one extending through the centre of arm 
scye, touching the edge of the circle both at the front and back, then we would 
produce representatives of our line J 3, also line H i. 

Now we desire to impress the reader with this one fact, that whatever the form 
you may have to measure, the shoulder may be forward as in the stooping figure, 
or backward, as in the extra erect; either may be in the extreme case, and if the 
principle we employ determines the true position of one form, it will of the other and 
all the intermediate ones. Again, we do not wish to be understood that by the use 
of the Curvilinear measure, we determine the forwardness, or backwardness of the 
shoulder. This measure has for its office work to solely give the needed length of 
shoulder, or, if you please, the location of the bottom of arm scye, from points A 2, 
and in connection with the circumference of arm scye, we produce the completion of 
our shoulder measurement, providing in the use of these two measures, the all 
needed remedy for ultimately forming the shoulder of the garment. 

We assert positively that this Curvilinear measure, as we produce it in measuring, 
and apply it in the construction of our drafts, will ensure the correct depth of scye 



l.^*i 







SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 9 

on all forms to be met in practice at the cutting-board. The forwardness and back- 
wardness of the arm scye will be discussed hereafter. To the question : Will it make 
any difference respecting the Curvilinear measure in its practical results ? Should 
point A 2 be placed two and one-halt, or three and one-half inches from the centre of 
neck at the back ? We answer, that it would not essentially enough to produce a 
kill — for proof, see figure 3. If we place the point of one leg to a pair of dividers 
at X, on line passing through the centre of arm scye, the other point at A 2, and 
sweeping the curve line, we will find, even on a life size figure, that the difference of 
distance mentioned, will not produce a varying result, for the very reason that, as 
we move the centre at A 2, correspondingly the centre of the tape measure changes 
its location at centre of under side of arm scye. Should the Curvilinear measure 
be taken from A 2, two and one-half inches from the centre of the neck, and the 
result be 23 inches, or should it be produced at three and one-half inches, and the 
result prove to be 23 inches ; as a consequence, it gives us 11^ inches as our length 
to apply from A 2, top of back to X on line I 2. That is granting that the width of 
top of back be tlrawn from O to A 2, two and three-fourth inches. But if rather 
one draft was drawn, two and one-half inches, from O to A 2, and the other three 
and one-half inches, tliere would be found that the last mentioned distance would 
produce the depth of scye one-half of an inch more than the first distance, or one- 
fourth of an inch, where their is only the difference of one-half inch, made at A 2, in 
measuring and applying same. 



THE CORPULENT COAT AND VEST DT4GRAMS, WITH ILLUS- 
TRATION OE THE FIGURE TO BE COVERED. 

Plate Four. 

Here we have portrayed the stately form of a well developed, erect figure/ from 
the corpulent class of mankind. This plate of diagrams and figures fittingly convey, 
at a glance, the lesson sought to be given in this particular attitude of corpulency; 
also to more readily instruct in the best mode of designing a well proportioned gar- 
ment, suitable to develop this special organization. Diagram 3, representing the 
draft of forepart, gives a clear idea of the form of figure that it is designed for. This 
diagram, as in former ones, are produced from the same manner of procedure, in 
first establishing the various points from measure. All the parallel lines being drawn 
on the same plan, in conformity to the figure that was measured. Thus it will be 
only needful that we make mention of certain special points of variance from the 
proportionate figure of small waist. First, we call your attention to the peculiar 
form of arm scye, namely : Its depth of curve in the centre at X being in the full 



10 SALISBURY'S CURVILLVEAR SYSTEM. 

sized draft one-half inch below X, the form of scye we consider to be essentially 
different for various attitudes, of which we shall call your attention to again in our 
search for light. Another special change is at the bottom of back and side-body, 
referring to the space between D 3 and D 3, — and right here we will introduce the 
full measure of this person, which is : 

17!/^. Natural waist measure. 
19!/^. Full length waist measure. 
35. -Full length of coat. 

3. Width of top of the back. 
28. Curvilinear measure. 
19. Circumference of arm scye. 

83/. Natural width of back. 
Lenpfth of sleeve. 



19 
10 
46 

45 
46 



Neck CTorore measure. 
Circumference around breast. 
Circumference around waist. 
Circumference around hips. 



From this measure we find that there is no difference between the size ot hip 
measure and breast measure, therefore we call your attention right here to the form 
of figure 4 ; does it not show nearly as much hollow in the back at waist, as we find 
in figure 5, on plate 5. That being the case, does it not look consistent with 
practice that nearly or quite as much space should be taken out at D 3, as for the 
erect small waist person, emphatically we assure such is the case. Then the question 
arises, how shall we determine what amount of space to allow for this special torm ? 
Our reply is, that as we find in the most extreme case that two inches is an 
abundance of space ; then we rest ourselves on the result of dividing the difference, 
and conclude that one inch space is allowable in the premises ; and as a governing 
rule, we have found this plan to work effectually. Again the question will come up 
in practice : Here we have a customer who is a large, corpulent man, with neck 
forward, wide across blades, flat in the breast, and only look at the measure. See 
plate 8, diagram 16. 

19. Natural waist measure. 

21. Full waist measure. 
42. Full length of coat. 

3. Width of top of back. 

30. Curvilinear measure. 

22. Circumference of arm scye. 
9. Natural width of back. 



^^<^ 



SM^SBTTRTS CITKFI IxlXBAR 8TSTE3J, 




mM^^ 



SAlISBUUV'S CVKVlLhXEAl^ SVSTEM. IJ 

Igyi. Length of sleeve. 

loyi. Gorge measure. 

48. Circumference around breast. 

50, Circumference around waist. 

52. Circumference around hips. 
Now here we have four inches more size around the liii)s than breast. What is to 
be done to deliver us from this-dilema? Let us see. Owing to the necjc being for- 
ward, we recommend to advance the top of back at E, from line M, one-half inch, 
and as we find the scapula is thrown out, and the arms well forward. We will take 
a space of one-half inch out at the point P i, between the back and top of side-body, 
which gives us the benefit of two moves, one to secure a smooth and close fit at the 
back of arm, and the other point g-ained is, in result, the same as though nothing 
was taken out at this point, and we took instead a space of one inch at D 3. Thus 
by closing the space at D 3, we then secure the correct balance of waist to this special 
structure. But before leaving this subject of corpulent figures, there is another 
point that troubles most cutters. It is how to balance the forepart for such peculiar 
forms. Now to do so successfully, we will give you a sure antidote. See figure 4, 
and notice the dotted lines at the front and back of the person. Let A at the back 
represent the full length of waist, nineteen and one-half inches ; from this point, 
measure to the floor with the yard and a quarter stick, and whatever the distance 
proves to be, apply the same length in front at A, and make at that point a chalk 
mark. Then proceed to measure from point A 2, at the side of the neck, in a direct 
line down the front to the mark at A, and whatever the measure gives, that is to be 
used for obtaining the balance of the forepart, the same principle is applicable to any 
and all forms. One point must be made a part of the cutter's special attention in 
taking this extra measure, which is to be sure and have the customer stand in his 
natural position. 



VES7^ DIAGRAM FOUR AND F/VE, FOR CORPULENT MEN 

Illustrated on Plate Four. 

Betore entering upon the description of the mode in which we work out our vest, 
.system, we desire to call attention to a few facts that are a perpetual annoyance to 
many a professional artist. For instance, they find the vest that they have cut. 
when made up for a customer, to drag at the back of the neck, the bottom of the 
forepart to stand out from the body. If it is a four or five button single-breasted 
vest, it will be very snug at the top button, and in under the arm is found too much 
goods. Again, the same artist will find on other forms that the vest appears to fit. 



12 SAl/SBC'J?y'S CVRVILIXEAR SYSTEM. 

at least well enough to pass it off on the customer, while at the same time there is 
trouble in the mind of our artist — something saying in an inaudible voice: "Oh! 
what can the matter be ? Oh ! what can the matter be that makes my vest act so ? 
It is our mission, in penning these few lines, to introduce a jDroblem in the science 
and art of vest cutting, that will meet the wants of every troubled one, and place 
them upon a sure base of operations, that will make their labor a success, barring 
the annoyance arising from poor workmen, into whose hands the garment may be 
given to make up. On this form of men, another difficulty attends the artist, in 
too much leno-th of shoulder. To those who will follow out our sueeestions, we 
assure them that they will enjoy the art of vest cutting as never before. 

TO DRAFT DIAGRAM 5. 
Draw line O to I, and square out at C to H ; from C to D, is one-sixth of the 
half of the breast ; from C to F, is one-fourth of the breast ; from F to H, is one 
and one-half inch ; the line from E to B is drawn one-half the distance between D 
and F, in all cases ; form the bottom of the curve to scye and apply one-half the 
Curvilinear measure, 14 inches, (see dotted line) from C to B, then square from B to 
O, and from O to A mark one and one-half inch ; from I to J is one-fourth of hip 
measure, and one inch for make up ; with the curved rule, draw the front of the 
vest from H to P, and J ; form the curve lines as shown, taking out yi to ^4^ inch at 
side for hollow of waist, or spring to hips ; to measure for the length to vest, after 
deducting three inches for width of the top of back, the balance apply from B to I, 
and at the bottom of front, the length of role at P. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK. 
Diagram 4. Draw line from O to I : square out at C to D ; from I to K, one inch ; 
from parallel line extending from O to 1 ; measure out to D one-fourth the circum- 
ference of breast, and add one-half inch ; square down to E from D ; measure across 
the bottom of the forepart, and allow for seams ; then apply the balance of one-half 
of the hip measure from K to E ; from D, apply one-half the Curvilinear measure, 
14 inches, (see dotted line) up to B, three inches from O. O to A, one-half inch; 
sweep from A to F, by placing the tape measure at C ; from B to F, the same length 
as the top of shoulder to the forejjart ; complete by drawing curves as shown. 



THE ERECT FORM ILLUSTRATED. 

Plate Five. — Diagram G, Showing Two Styles of Coat for the Erect form ; Diagram 7 and 8, 
Back and Forepart of Vest for the Erect Form. 
The practical lesson brought out by this plate of diagrams and figure, is told at a 
glance ; by the artistic design, portraying in a life-like expression, the co7itoiir of the 



FLATBV 




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SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTLM 13 

erect person, and the mark adaptation of the drafts to this special form. The 
measure, as taken, stands as follows : 

i6iX. Lenq-th to natural waist. 
1 8. Full length of waist. 
2,2,. Full length of coat. 

2^. Width of top to back. 
23. Curvilinear measure. 
16. Circumference of arm scye. 

7. Natural width of back. 
18)^. Length of sleeve. 

8^. Gorge measure. 
37. Circumference of breast. 
22- Circumference of waist. 
34. Circumference of hips. 

VEST MEASURE. 

23. Length from the centre of neck to hip. 

163/^. Length from centre of neck to P. 

25. Length from centre of heck to bottom of front. 
The coat diagram is drafted according to the instructions already given ; the only 
feature of importance, that we would call attention to, in the manner of forming all 
curved lines, is where we produce the various changes requisite to the contoicr of the 
figure to be attired. Therefore, a strict adherence to the manner in which the arm scye 
curve is drawn, as in other points of the diagram, will aid greatly to the success of the 
artist in carying out our principles of operation. 

THE VEST. 
One variance in the vest diagram 8, we will notice. This diagram was drawn out 
upon the division of the one-half breast measure. We then applied one-half of the 
Curvilinear measure, eleven and one-half inches, from C to B, and the result was the 
shortening of the shoulder length. And from O to C, we measured one-fourth of 
the circumference of breast, all other points being located as described in the lesson 
on diagrams 4 and 5, plate 4. 



PLATE SIX. 



The Stooping Form Illustrated by Fkjure 6. 
Diagram 9, a coat draft for this special posture. Diagrams 10 and 1 1 represent the 
front and back of the vest, drawn to conform to this stooping or round 



14 SALTSBURV'S CVRVlLrXEAR SYSTEM. 

shouldered person. In illustrating the two figures, 5 and 6, with the various 
diagrams on plates 5 and 6, it will be made quite evident that in the two 
forms we represent two extremes found in the persons, of both slender and 
stout build, yet the location ot the arm, forward or backward, is the same 
in principle as well as practice, let the case be found with either class of individuals. 
If a man's arm is carried forward, it needs no convincing proof that the distance 
from the centre of back to front of arm scye, is increased in like ratio to the ad- 
vancement ; vice versa, if carried back, as in the erect position, the distance is 
lessened. Again we call attention to the draft, as it shows every point and line 
drawn in the same manner as for other forms, with this difference at E ; the top of 
back is drawn one-half inch in from line M, and A 2 advanced the same, and at P i, 
one-fourth inch is taken off the top of the side-body ; also a change is made in the 
curve to scye. 

THE MEASUEE. 

i7/i- Natural waist length. 

19. Full waist length. * 

34. Full length coat. 

2^. Width of the top of back. 

23. Curvilinear measure. 

16. Circumference of arm scye. 

71^. Natural width of back. 

19^. Length of sleeve. 

8^. Gorge measure. 

'^']. Circumference of breast. 

32. Circumference of waist. 

33. Circumference of hips. 

VEST MEAvSURE. 

23. Length from the centre of collar to hips. 
13. Length of Role. 



J 



24^. Length of front. 
The artist, in examining the diagrams 6 and 9, cannot fail in distinguishing quite a 
difference in the formation of the designs; both correctly represent their true 
character, in as definite manner to the mind, as do the two figures, 5 and 6. What 
is the cause of this great change in the shoulders of the two coats, when every measure 
used to form thereby, are identical, except the natural width of the back, and they 
are only one-half inch difference from each other ? Now mark, that this natural 
width of back line H i, is of special importance in the direct relation it sustains to 
the final success of the fit of the garment. Therefore, we urge upon the investigator 



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SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM 15 

and practitioner of this system of working, to not fail in using the greatest of care 
in taking this and the arm scye measure, for upon their correctness depends the true 
location of line I 2, line J 3, and line K 4. 



SACK COAT SYSTEM ON PLATE SEVEN. 

iLLUSTRATINii TwO StYLE.S CoAT, THE DoUBLE AND SiNULE-BrEASTED SaCK. 

The measure for this style garment was: 

1 6. Waist length. 

28. Full length coat. 
2^^. Width top back. 

23. Curvilinear measure. 

1 6. Circumference scye. 
7. Natural width of back. 

19. Length of sleeve. 
8^. Gorge measure. 

2,"]. Circumference of breast. 

32. Circumference of waist. 
Proceed to draw according to diagram, adding four inches extra front, from line 
L 5, for the single breast, and five inches extra for the double breast. To draft this 
diagram by the division of the breast measure, you have only to draw line | 3, two- 
thirds of the half of breast measure, 12 inches; then draw line H i, one-fourth of 
one-halt the breast, from line J 3, the other lines in the usual way ; and for the depth 
of scye, you measure down from the horizontal line to X, 9 inches, or one-fourth of 
the breast measure ; then ascertain, by measurement, the distance from X to A 2, 
at the top of back, and apply the same length from X to A 2, on line K 4, for 
shoulder point; 16 inches being the exact circumference of scye measure to 
draft the width, yet it would prove too small to form the full length by, 
therefore, add one inch extra when applying the distance from B i to B i , and if a 
square shoulder is sought for, even one and one-half or two inches could be added 
without determent, if the sleeve head is raised to correspond. So as to prevent 
dragging the shoulder of the coat, and crowding extra goods in back of arm scye, ex- 
tra plys of wadding as a lifter, or our improved shoulder supporter will be needed, 
when a square shoulder is required for your customer. 



16 SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 



THE SLEEVE SYSTEM. 



Plate Eight. — Illustrating the Sleeve System in Diagrams 13, 14, and 15 ; also Large 
Corpulent Draft, for Double-Breasted Frock Coat, in Diagram 16, which we have 
Already Referred to in the Description given of Plate 4, and the Full Measure 
given. 

Draw line from O to H, and square out to E ; from O to B is one-third of scye 
measure; square out from B to C, O to A, one-sixteenth scye measure ; square out 
from A to D, one-half scye measure, and one-half inch ; B to F, one-half scye 
measure; O to E, one-fourth scye measure; B to H, length of sleeve 19 inches, 
one-half the distance between B and H, gives the elbow point ; proceed to finish 
curve lines as represented ; the dotted line at B shows where to leave extra outlay, 
if thought best. Should occasion ever occur, that the arm scye was lowered in front, 
then this extra goods would be needed. ' 

DIAGRAM 14, 
Represents the manner by which the seam at hand can be changed, which is done 
by taking from the under side of the .sleeve one inch, and adding the same amount 
to the top side, drawing the curve alike to both sides, from B to i at the hand ; the 
balance of diagram to be drawn as already described. 

DIAGRAM 13, 
Presents the mode of determining the point D, by laying the back on 
parallel to base line, granting that the line from B to C represents the bottom of 
scye ; then D should be drawn one-half inch above the nick made for sleeve seam ; 
O to A being one-sixteenth of scye measure. The fact is apparent, that a majority 
of coats are abortions, arising from the sleeve being cut too low in upper part, 
especially is this the case, when most of cutters attempt to produce a square 
shoulder; they fit on the coat without the sleeve, and it is pronounced perfect, but 
when finished low, the shoulder is flat and lifeless as a leaf, and back of arm is a 
surplus of goods that was not visible before the sleeve was sewed into the seam ; as 
to the cause being in the sleeve, Mr. would-be professor will not admit. Then comes 
chalk into play, and always the job goes to be butchered just where it ought not to 
be. There is not one cutter in a hundred that can tell how the alteration should be 
made, and still preserve the shoulder of the coat intact. We advise any artist that 
may be caught in this dilemma, to just rip the sleeve head from front arm seam to 
back scye, or enough to ensure the under side of sleeve to hang fair and straight, 
while the arm hangs at the side ; then observe how much space is needed to com- 
plete the length of sleeve head, and if it wants one inch or more, then you may get 



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SALISBUHY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 



it by hollowing the under side of sleeve that amount, and lengthening the same at 
the hand, by letting out the extra turn in, otherwise you had better cut new sleeves 
than spoil the coat entire. Much more might be suggested in relation to the sleeve, 
but we shall defer until another time. 



DOUBLE AND SINGLE-BREASTED OVER SACK. 

Plate Nine. 

Diagram i8, representing the two styles of over-sack, need no special explana- 
tion in regard to the construction of the base lines to the draft. For, as illustrated, 
it is shown to be drawn in the same manner as given in the description of previous 
instructions, when worked out from the measure. What we do wish to call attention 
to, is how to draft the over-coat direct from the measure ; also by the division of 
the breast measure. 

To Draft from measure, we proceed to use the same measure as taken over the 
vest for the body coat, which is as follows : Length of waist, 1 7 inches ; E to H, 
36 inches, as length of coat; 23/^, width of top to back; 23, Curvilinear measure; 
163^, arm scye ; 19, length sleeve; 7, natural width of back; 8^, gorge measure ; 
breast, 36 ; waist, 32. When drafting, we add as follows to the various sizes taken. 
For illustration : From O to A 2, draw top of back three inches. In drawing line 
H I, add one-half inch to natural width hack measure ; use one-third of sixteen and 
one-half for drawing line J 3, as the width of scye from line H i ; then when apply- 
ing the scye measure ; from B i to B i, add one and one-half or two inches, as you 
deem desirable for length of shoulder and ease of scye. Add one-half inch to gorge 
measure ; one-half inch extra to length of sleeve, add one inch extra to one-half the 
breast measure, which would be equivalent to two inches additional in the circum- 
ference; the same to be added to the waist measure, and to the Curvilinear we add 
one and one-half inches, or two inches extra would not produce any evil results ; it 
merely gives length to shoulder. In adding extra to this measure, and like amount 
to the arm scye, results in ease at the bottom of scye, and especially in drawing 
on the over-coat. Therefore, we deem it as a general rule best, to add two inches to 
the Curvilinear and arm scye measures, for heavy goods, and for a light material for 
spring wear, one and one-half inches is sufficient. Make the width at bottom of 
back from H to K, 8 inches, or according to the changes in style; for the extra 
front, in excess of line L 5, we give five inches for the single-breasted, and five and 
one-half to six inches extra for the double-breast. The sleeve is drawn out as fol- 
lows : From O to B, one-third scye measure, (that is, using in every instance, the 
close measure taken over the shirt for producing the width of scye, as also in draft- 
ing the sleeve). From B to H, length of sleeve; from C to D, and A to B, is three- 

3 



18 SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 

fourths of an inch more than the distance from nick in back scye to the line drawn 
across the bottom of scye at N, as seen in diagram 1 2, plate 7 ; from B to F, one- 
half of full size scye, as cut ; from A to D, one-half of full size of scye measure, 
say eighteen scye, 9 inches ; from H to J, six and one-half inches. To draft the 
over-sack, by division of the breast, we draw line J 3, first after line M, twelve and one- 
half inches, or two-thirds of 19 inches, one-half of breast ; then draw line H i, one- 
fourth of breast, or four and three-fourth inches from line J 3 ; draw line I 2, in the 
centre A ; from the top line to X, is one-fourth breast, or nine and one-half inches ; 
then take the distance from X to A 2, to top of back, say twelve inches, and apply 
that as you would one-half the Curvilinear measure ; from X around the curve to 
scye, in front up to A 2,Tor the shoulder point. The balance is drawn and completed, 
as given in the lesson how to draft from measure. The collar to be drafted, as 
shown on the diagram. Figure two, on plate nine, is to illustrate how the natural 
width of back may be taken in a precise manner, by using the inch square, passing 
'the long arm through and beneath the shoulder or arm scye, the short arm of square 
to stand perpendicular to the body, and press in close to shoulder, then pass the end 
of tape measure inside next to body, as shown at B, and measure for the width to 
the centre of back, at A. Observe, when taking this measure, your customer's at- 
titude, for the arm should be advanced forward, and not raised and thrown back. 
Attention to this very important point will ensure success in the final results sought 
for. Figure three illustrates the mode of procuring the length of sleeve from the 
under side of arm, which is accomplished by taking the short arm of square and 
placing it up in under the arm, close to arm pit, then taking hold of the person's 
hand, and gently pull, so that the arm may be extended the fiill length, you then note 
the length desired by the numbers of the long arm of square, from C to cuff, and 
what length is thus taken we use for the drafting of sleeve. 



PLATE TEN. 

To Design the Inverse or Cape Coat ; also Three-Quarteu Circle, by the use of Sack 

Over-Coat Pattern, as Base of Operations. 

To produce this style of garment, for various forms is generally done by using 
graduated scales, and the fatal result of such a mode of drafting as fallacious in the 
extreme, which can be better understood by taking a 42 or 44 scale and drawing 
out a pattern to correspond with that size of breast measure ; the result apparent is, 
your garment is many sizes too large. You may say that for 44 breast, I would select 
a 40 size scale to draft by. Why this mode guessing, if the principle is sound for a 
36 size, it should be for all others, or it is founded upon wrong premises, and the 
sooner discarded the better off will be the artist. Now to obviate the difficulties 
mentioned, which are only few of many, we shall present a plan that will meet 
every emergency, which will be satisfactorily made visible by the diagrams and 
descriptions on plate ten, with our instructions. 

To draft this garment, from measure, we will take the back and forepart of the 
over-coat drawn out, according to the previous lesson, in every detail. Then place 
the back to edge of cloth, (see diagram 21), as shown by dotted lines, and proceed 
to square out, as shown, at two and three-fourths, also at eight inches, which is the 






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SALISBURY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM 19 

waist line, and at the bottom, ten inches ; all these distances, in inches, are to be 
drawn from the single over-coat pattern, for all sizes in ev^ery instance ; then draw 
curve lines as shown, and in like manner we lay the forepart of single over-coat 
pattern on to the cloth and produce the various distances, so well illustrated on the 
engraved plate, that no trouble will arise in the manner of working out this system. 
Thus we draw the cape, and in so doing, we use X as our point from which to sweep 
the circle to cape and cloak ; X is drawn three inches from point of shoulder A 2, 
To produce the three-quarter circle, we lay the back in a closing position to the 
shoulder of the forepart ; the centre of back to represent the centre of circle or 
cloak ; the gorge being completed, the same as for the inverse cape, and the bottom 
of circle to be drawn from X, by sweep. In first producing a pattern for the over- 
coat, from measure, we obtain the relative size and proportion suitable for the contour 
of the figure, and then adding the extras, as given in this lesson, to produce the 
inverse coat and cape, we retain same beauty of outline in the garment for a large 
man of 44 breast, that we find in the 36 size. In putting together this form of gar- 
ment, the back, forepart, and cape are sewed together from A 2, to within three 
inches of B, in one seam ; you then close the balance of side seam to the bottom, 
cape, forepart and collar, all sew together from A 2 to the V in front, the collar to 
be drawn, and then cut out as represented by diagram 22. 



PLATE ELEVEN. 

The Vest System. — Illustrated. 
Figure nine illustrates the four button single-breasted vest. Figure ten illustrates 
the design for a three button double-breasted vest. In figure eleven we have beau- 
tifully engraved the prevailing style of five button, double-breasted vest, of the low 
role type. With figure twelve is illustrated the finely drawn design of a three but- 
ton, single-breast, dress vest. While in figure thirteen the elaborate engraved de- 
sign of a five button, high role, double-breasted vest is skilfully portrayed. In 
diagram 26 is demonstrated the very ready plan of changing one design into 
another style of garment, by using the single-breasted vest pattern, as shown by 
the dotted lines, and adding thereto, as at W, five inches from the bottom ; we then 
draw the front edge for that style vest, two inches from dotted line ; then add three 
inches for the extra length, as represented. The buttons are 2]4 inches apart, the 
top button being placed 2 inches back from dotted line at W. The collar is drawn 
as illustrated, while diagram 27 presents the six button double-breast vest; also de- 
signed from the use of the single-breast vest pattern. Proceed to draw the front 
2^ inches at the top button, and 2 inches at the bottom button, from the dotted line, 
which represents the single-breast pattern. The collar and curves to be drawn out 
as illustrated. 

PLATE TWELVE. 

[This plate should have been plate eleven, as the numbei'ing of the figin-e and dia- 
grams ivill show^ 

Diagram 23 is introduced on this j^late to illustrate a new mode of balancing the 



20 SAL/SBCRY'S CURVILINEAR SYSTEM. 

waist, which is done by extending Hne I 2, to W, as shown by the dotted line. You 
then use one-fourth the hip measure eight and five-eights inches from hne I 2, at W, 
to ly^ inches as the point for locating the front of coat at that part, adding one and 
one-half inches as extra allowance for making up. You next proceed to deduct the 
width of back at D 3, 2 inches, from the same amount, 8 5-8 inches, one-fourth of 
hip measure, and apply the balance 6 5-8 inches from W to S. This manner of pro- 
curing the waist balance is wrought out in an easy manner, and will produce the 
same result for all forms, where the hip measure does not exceed the circumference 
of breast. We give the two plans now incorporated in this work as par excellant 
and unequaled as correct principle for determining the true balance of the fore- 
part, to the contour of the human form. 

Again, in illustrating this design, we show the sloping shoulder by the dotted lines 
as it appears when drawn out to measure, and for the benefit of those who wish to 
try a draft from the measure of a person who stood 5 feet 10 inches in height, with 
long neck, extreme sloping shoulders, whose shoulder blades were very much 
extended, or thrown out, resulting in an extra width of back and small arm scye, 
also flat across the breast. The measure for this form was as follows : 

i^y^, natural waist ; 19, full length waist; 34, skirt; 2Y^, width top of back ; 23, Curvi- 
linear ; 7^, width of back ; 203^, length of sleeve ; 9, gorge measure ; 1 5, arm scye ; 35, 
breast; 32, waist; ■^i, hips ; 37, circumference of seat. 

In drawing out a pattern, use the arm scye measure as given. To determine the 
division of the arm scye, or the distance that line J 3, is drawn from line H i, by 
using one-third the exact circumference of the scye measure ; then in this instance, 
and special figure, we should wish to raise the point of shoulder in making up ; 
therefore, an allowance of one or one and one-half inches, in addition to the measure, 
as first taken, 15 inches would not be any too much, giving us as the final scye 
measure to complete our draft, 161/ inches, from B i to B i. We advise the drafting 
out of this special measure, which is no fancy sketch, and was taken by our own 
hands, very recendy, and in thus doing, the artist will better comprehend the general 
details pre-figuring this peculiar structure, and it is a form frequendy to be met. 

We call attention to the extra size of seat measure, which is two inches more than 
the circumference of the breast measure, and where this showing of difference be- 
tween the two measures occur, then the skirt requires one-half inch extra raise at 
the top, in front, which results in giving more drapery at the hip, and prevents a 
clinging appearance, also the spreading apart at the back skirt. Diagram 19, as 
previously referred to, is to show the manner of producing the back skirt, when the 
upper part of the back as first cut out from paper, as in diagram 23, and then laid 
upon the cloth to mark around, preparatory to cutting. 

THE VEST SYSTEM. 

Figure 8 is designed to represent the high role, single-breasted vest ; and diagram 
24 shows the manner of lowering the gorge curve to produce a lower role vest; 
while diagram 25 sets forth a five button vest, which closes rather higher on the breast 
than the style illustrated in diagram 26. The design gives all special details without 
any further instruction, and can readily be worked out from the drawing. 



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